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Friday, March 31, 2006

A Bit of Hot Lava
OK, I'm really short on time, again, so I'm going to rip off the first few volcano photos from Lanzarote with less talk than normal. Enjoy.
 
Despite her initial concern over the trip, Katherine looks like a pretty cool character here at the main entrance to the park. She's staring out over a vast, 200-odd year old lava field (called malpaís).
 
TimanfayaEntrance.jpg
 
You get a better sense of the vastness of the malpaís from this perspective - me turned arounded and looking out from Katherine's point of view.
 
MalpaisOne.jpg
 
A few minutes later we're on the top of a volcano, with benefits. Namely, a restaurant with table service and real food cooked over the hot steam vents from the volcano. Katherine, as you see, is having a pretty good time. We both wanted a picture of her in front of a volcano, so here it is.
 
KLOVolcano.jpg
6:33 pm est

Thursday, March 30, 2006

Sands Beach Villas, Lanzarote: A Review

I became motivated to write this after receiving the survey at the end of my stay here. I didn’t have very many good things to say. So I referred them to my blog for more details.

 

Kara and I have stayed at some good resorts, including a few very good ones. So we know what a really good resort should offer. The sad thing is that now that we have kids our standards are much lower. All we are really looking for is a comfortable, self-catered room that can we can all sleep in comfortably, good food and beach/pool access. Really, that’s about it. This resort failed on most of those criteria.

 

We booked a double bedroom and were checked into Montana-01. The room comes with a living room/dining room combination, small galley kitchen with a hob (range), microwave and dishwasher and two ensuite bedrooms. There was also a small walled off patio that was really only good for drying towels in as it contained nothing but a single plastic lawn chair and a clothes line. The walls were about 2 ¼ metres high, so it was really a box without a roof. There was also a sofa with a pull-out bed and a swing-down bed. Upon arrival we requested a cot. I was told at the time that it would be delivered as soon as the porter finished bringing some bags to rooms, but in fact we had to go and check on it several hours later and it finally arrived some time after that.

 

There were a number of problems with the room, but they were relatively minor overall. The kitchen had a dishwasher but they did not provide either dishwasher detergent or regular disk-soap. We ended up hand-washing all the dishes because we couldn’t get to the on-site grocery store when it was open and the local supermarkets did not stock it. And the rest is probably more typical. There weren’t many cooking implements – no spatulas, for example, dull knives and so forth. The point of getting a self-catered room is to, well, cook. We didn’t do much cooking. And of course the beds were uncomfortable and the pillows flat, but I didn’t hold out hope for much better, to be honest. We have a nice bed at home so I expect to have less comfortable bed on a trip. It still sucks, but beds are a very individual thing and I can’t complain too much about that.

 

There was no way to make coffee in the room other than a filter funnel. Although the resort touts ‘room service’, there was none. Room service had been discontinued and it was take-away. Oddly enough, they did not actually have take-away coffee cups. So we could get a cup of coffee at the Mai-Tai restaurant (where they serve breakfast), but if we got it take-away they put it in a red disposable Coca-Cola cup. On one occasion, they couldn’t find a plastic top for the cup that fit.

 

The housekeeping was not good as well. We have two kids, 4 and 1. They, well, they make a mess. In one stretch, the glass coffee table, which had kid-goo smudge marks all over it was not cleaned for three days. And there was no housekeeping at all on Sunday – we had to call and ask for a quick cleanup – wipe down, trash and towels. They came promptly and did trash and towels but no cleaning. But that was OK, we could overlook that on a Sunday in a different country and culture.

 

On the other hand, I could not get the phone to work. Since we really didn’t need it much (only to place take-out orders and receive the pick-up call) it didn’t bother us too much until we had a phone experience that seems typical of the service here. My wife had managed to get the phone to work just by repeated attempts. I found that something like one in three tries would work. On our last night, we ordered take-out from the Hacienda restaurant. The kids were starving having just come back from the beach and it seemed to be taking them a long time to call back. My wife went down to the Hacienda to check up on the food. They explained that they had tried to call us but it seemed that the phone didn’t work. So they placed a maintenance call to have the phone fixed and left our food sitting there. If we hadn’t checked up on it, I don’t know if we ever would have gotten it.

 

The phone guy gets there a bit later. He speaks only Spanish. He asks Kara what the problem is, in Spanish, and it immediately becomes clear that he will not be able to do anything without a translator. So he calls the front desk and Kara explains the problem to them. Then the front desk explains it to him. He seems to think it’s a line problem and he can’t fix it, so he leaves. By the way, he left his work order list in our room leaving me to thank my lucky stars that I wasn’t in Plaza del Sol-39, where the ‘cisterna no para.’

 

The same thing happened with the wifi internet in the lobby. They have two wifi zones – one in the lobby and one in the Mai-Tai restaurant down by the beach. I used the wifi in the lobby bar the first time I blogged. Two nights later I went to blog and I got a connected to the zone, but the Telefonica website where you type in your PIN to gain access was not available. I reported this to the front desk immediately. The guy, who was very nice, asked me what the problem was and I explained it. He looked very sympathetic but made no attempt to report or log the problem. As I was leaving he mentioned that there was wifi in the Mai-Tai and that some people could pick up the signal from the beach across the lagoon. And why do you have to sit on the beach near the lagoon? Because they close the Mai-Tai at 6PM. And so I sat in a reclining lounge chair and blogged whilst the tide came in. It wasn’t very comfortable. I checked the lobby wifi two days after that and it was still broken. Which is not surprising because Telefonica still probably has no idea it’s down.

 

There were a few other problems – one that was significant and deserves further notice. All of the walkways are paved with a very smooth red tile. The kind of tile that turns into a sheet of ice when it becomes wet. The pools in the plazas all had fake grass around them as a buffer zone, but the pool at the Mai-Tai did not. I cannot tell you how many times Katherine and Alex slipped on this tile. I took Katherine there our last day and she fell three times. Thank heaven they didn’t fall bad enough to hit their heads because it could have caused a serious injury. I mean, come on, they make tiles for pools that are non slip. This is a major safety hazard – one significant enough that I would never recommend that a family with small kids come here.

 

Also, apparently by law you are not allowed to have a heated pool here. The pools were very cold – too cold to swim in for any length of time. The pool at the Mai-Tai was heated, but only barely – it was still really cold. I should explain that the Mai-Tai is on a little island in the middle of a lagoon that is tidal, so I guess it’s technically exempt from this law, but if so I wonder why it wasn’t warmer. I couldn’t stay in that pool for more than 15 minutes or so, and neither could Katherine who is usually more tolerant of cold water than I.

 

And let’s talk about that lagoon for a second. It’s clearly a centerpiece of the resort. You can book rooms that are right on the sandy beach of the lagoon. It looks like the perfect setup for a family. We didn’t stay there on the advice of a co-worker and it was a good thing. The lagoon was disgusting. It may be tidal, but it looked to me like that meant that the top third of the tide came over a breakwater. There was a lot of algae and other growth in it, as well as rocks along the bottom. Kara took Alex there one day and told me that it was very unpleasant.

 

But at least there is the food, right? Resort food is usually pretty good. *sigh*. Do you really want to know about the dry-as-a-bone chicken, the hamburger with chips of bone in it, or the salad with about two onions worth of rings thrown on top of it? The English breakfast was OK as was the Margerita pizza, but Kara and I soon tired of those.

 

One thing I will say is that the location is pretty good. It’s on the north side of Costa Teguise and you can take a sea-walk down to all the local beaches. But only during daytime – at night they lock all the beach access gates. This, in itself, is pretty ridiculous. Unless they are hidden (in which case they are a terrible deterrent), there were no CCTVs watching the sea-walk and it’s trivial to hop over any number of areas on the wall to get into the resort. I know, because I did it one night. I wanted to take a walk out onto the breakwater and watch the waves. The front desk told me that I had to walk along the road inland up and around (about a kilometer) to get there. I jumped over the back wall to save myself the walk. I mean, what beach resort doesn’t let you get to the beach? Never mind the fact that the guest parking lot gates were open to the street every time I came in and out with the car – as late at 10:30pm and the service road for these has unrestricted access to all the rooms.

 

Oh I could go on, but I’ll stop there save this: the entertainment looked really bad. Whilst blogging in the Sunset Bar (in the lobby), I endured bingo, Karaoke, and later saw two guys playing blues on electric guitars with all the other instrumentation pre-recorded. I heard a cabaret act at the coin-op Internet computers in the lobby. There was a male and female singer. The male was bad – he really didn’t have any vocal training and he lost the beat a few times and was off key occasionally as well. The female was pretty good, but then a different woman came out as she was as bad as the guy.

 

So you have a resort with bad food, cold pools, dangerous tile and no access to the beach outside of daylight hours.

 

I will not come back to this resort. In fact, I will probably not go any Sands resort again due to this experience. AJ, if you are reading this (she recommended it), I’m sure it was great for you when you rep’d it, but it’s gone straight downhill since then.

7:07 pm est

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

A Quick Internet Story
I'm not blogging because the wifi in the lobby bar has gone down. When I told the front desk they were apologetic, but did not make any attempt to correct the situation. They told me I might be able to get the zone down by the Mai Tai bar. The bar, however, is locked at night, so I had to sit on the lagoon in a lawn chair and pick up two bars of signal. I sat there for at least 90 minutes blogging the entry from a few days ago. When I was just about done, I looked down and realised that the tide had pulled the water halfway up under the lawn chair. I left, obviously, but I'm not doing that again. I'm using a coin-operated pay machine in the lobby. It has a card reader, but it's just too many hoops to jump through. I think you'll have to wait until I get back to London for the rest of the stuff.
4:42 pm est

Sunday, March 26, 2006

A Teaser
Ever stand on top of a volcano? I can cross that one off the list of things to do before I expire.
 
Cone.jpg
 
 
6:38 pm est

Misery in Paradise
Yesterday was the most miserable day I have had on holiday in quite some time. The photos might be nice, but the day was anything but. It looks like a dream holiday from Friday's blog, I suppose. But this resort is not all it's stacked up to be. To start, there's the food. It's, well, terrible. I mean really terrible. The only thing we can eat here is pizza, booze, ice cream and soda (or ice cream and soda). It caught up to me yesterday. With the exception of an OK Chinese dinner (interupted by the kids, of course) I haven't had a good meal since I've been here. And that caused me to be really, really grumpy. Probably low blood sugar. On top of that, Katherine was a complete nightmare yesterday and Alex wasn't much better.
 
Honestly, I was ready to leave. It was so bad from start to finish. Let's start the story here, though, at the house of the prolific artist and architect César Manrique. This is a mobile in front of his house. These mobiles are all over the island - he seemed to pay particular attention to the roads - there seems to be a mobile in every roundabout. Anyway, the house is beyond stunning. It's built on top of a lava flow and incorporates five underground lava bubbles (called Jameos). We almost got in big trouble here, but more on that later.
 
ManriquesMobile1.jpg
 
By the way, if you follow the link above you will see this mobile on the Wikipedia page. Pretty cool. I didn't plan it that way though. Anyway, he died in '92 and the house is now a museum and the home of his foundation. You start the tour walking through the upper level. The walls, ceiling and floor are blindingly white. There is contemporary art on the walls and holes in the floor in various places where the lava bubbles are open at the top. Then you go outside and down into the bubbles.
 
IntoTheLavaBubbles.jpg
 
It's pretty hard to capture the inside of the bubbles, but this is a quick try. The tree here is growing up through the top of the bubble. All the bubble rooms have unique features like this - he incorporated art, architecture and wildlife into his home where possible. By the way, this is also proper documentation of how bratty Katherine was.
 
BubbleGirl.jpg
 
There are various terraces outside between the bubbles. Here's Alex happily playing in one of them. Please note carefully the object in his left hand - it will play a role in the story later.
 
AlexPlayingRocks.jpg
 
So anyway, we get through all the bubbles and come back into the house where there is more gallery. This one is really striking. It's pure white again, but very large - probably 15 meters by seven or eight in the main room with large rooms coming off it. (For my US readers, you've probably noted that I'm using metric and UK English a lot more - it just feels right. But here's a handy hint: a metre is about three feet.) The art is large format here - big, big paintings with bold colors. Red in particular is a color Manriques used to create contrast. Red also appears on the island in many parts as a result of the eruptions.
 
So anyway, we come into this gallery and Katherine looks at this huge red painting that's somewhat abstract. She walks right up to it and starts saying, "Daddy, what is that painting?". It's about this time that we become aware of the guards standing around. I look down and see a black line on the floor about a metre back from the wall the painting is hanging on. The guard is saying something in Spanish and I immediately grab Katherine and tell her she has to stand behind the line. The guards relax and move back a bit.
 
Anyway, it's very loud in this room. It looked like it was made of white marble, although I didn't look that closely and there is no fabric anywhere, so voices sound really, really loud. I tell Katherine, "the great thing about art is that it's up to you to decide what you see. When I look at that painting I see a man holding birds in his hand. What do you see?"
 
"Hot lava," she says. (She's a little preoccupied with hot lava and volcanos).
 
Anyway, we move on into one of the side chambers and I'm starting to show Katherine the next painting when I hear it.
 
BANG!
 
BANG!
 
BANG BANG BANG BANG BBBBBBBANG!
 
And I see a rock lying against the wall behind the line. Alex decided that this was the place to throw it around. The guards are now moving towards us. I pick up the rock (I didn't even realise he'd been holding on to it for the 15 minutes or so it took us to get to the gallery) and grab Katherine. Kara grabs Alex. We both look toward the guards and say repeatedly and with all the humility we can muster, "sorry, sorry, we're leaving, sorry," and we hightail it out of there.
 
Yikes.
 
Then we decide to head up north to a jameos restaurant and concert hall (another Manriques project - basically he had a hand in everything interesting on the island). But as we're getting close, Katherine decides she's rather see Mirador del Rio. This is an absolutely stunning vista created in the side of a volcanic mountain overlooking the northern island of Graciosa. There is a café at the top and a balcony for viewing. It was a long, long way down to the water. The kids have had as much trouble eating as we have, so we got some muffins and drinks and tried to get some food into them. But they were both being almost unmanageable. Finally, we go outside to look out over the view.
 
I decide that I will try to take a panoramic series and stitch them together later with Photoshop. And I do, but I made a critical mistake - I didn't set the camera to manual exposure.
 
(Please bear with me for a small digression involving photography)
 
When you stitch together photos for a panorama you have to be very careful about how to take them. You need to overlap the subject matter so that the stitching software can line them up. And more importantly, you need to make sure the exposure is the same on all the frames. If you use the automatic exposure meter, it will force a proper exposure depending on the light in the scene. In this case, it varied widely. I shot eight or ten frames across a field of view that was at least 90 degrees, if not wider. Some were bright, some were dim. That means that pictures actually have different exposures and it is really noticeable when you stitch them together.
 
Then Kara and Alex joined Katherine and me and I tried to take the classic holiday photo of the family in front of the view. Katherine was wild at this point and started walking away. She tripped and fell cutting her leg twice and started howling. End of photo session. End of Mirador del Rio. The problem with these volcanic islands is that the ground is, well, lava. It's really sharp. More on that tomorrow though.
 
So with Katherine howling and crying, my mood completely broken and Kara just a frustrated, we carry the kids back to the car and run off to buy plasters.
 
When I looked at the photos in the evening, I realised that I had not framed any individual photo in the sequence to stand alone. So whilst this is a very pretty photo of Graciosa, it's not composed the way I would like.
 
(One other note about the scale of this photo - yes, that is a small fishing boat in the bottom of the frame.)
 
MiradorDelRioView1.jpg
 
I was super disappointed when I realised this, because I have this fatalistic philosophy when it comes to travel. I pretty much figure that I'll never be at the place again after the visit. Think about it. You always say, "oh we have to come back and do this or that," but does it ever happen?
 
Anyway, we went back to the resort and went to the beach and built sandcastles. It was fun, but it was what Katherine wanted to do and we'd be doing everything that Katherine wanted to do since we arrived. And except for the sandcastle part she basically fought over every tiny thing we wanted to do. We finally made it back and got them into bed. Kara and I had a long talk. She was also very unhappy and disappointed, but we figured we'd stick it out another day and see if things got any better.
 
I, on the other hand, decided that I would go blog my misery. So I went back to the wifi bar with my 24 hour wifi card and couldn't find the bartender. I waited at the bar for five minutes and no-one showed. This was a really bad experience for my mood and I finally walked away and just sat down without a drink to connect. And promptly discovered that the card had expired. That was the last straw for me. I was really angry.
 
You see, I bought a 24 hour card for €11 and figured it was good for one day. But when I logged in, it showed me a time balance - you have xx minutes left and so forth. It's stupid, really, but the way it was worded left me with the impression that I could draw down the time the way you do with minutes on a mobile phone. Wrong. Why don't they just say your session will expire at a certain date and time?
 
Anyway, I was so disgusted I left, went back to the room, took two sleeping pills, did the dishes and went to bed.
 
It's probably better off. If I had written this yesterday you'd probably thing I was having a nervous breakdown. I might have been, but I'm in a little better place today.
5:46 pm est


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